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Thread: 2.2 Ecotec Valve Train Noise

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    2.2 Ecotec Valve Train Noise

    So, I'm sure I am guilty of being the reason why this started happening... I have a P0300 code I haven't solve for over a year (unplugged the MAP sensor and it runs fine), and I drive this thing like a jockey on race day... Or at least I use to.

    It started a couple weeks ago. I can hear it more like a clack clack clack sound. I can hear it between shifts (manual trans) and when in gear at around 2000 rpm.

    If I am at 2000 rpm and push the gas peddle down it disappears and if I let off the gas it disappears too. I can hear it when I'm under the hood and the car has been driven for a while (up to temp). It is definitely not the injectors... I can hear them too... and they are a different sound.

    I put my "stethoscope" up to the valve cover and I could hear it clear as day. Also, it is consistent with engine speed. Oil level is spot on.

    My question is if this is going to cost a lot to fix? and what component(s) is it? Thanks in advance.

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    "Hear clear as day" with scope. I would suggest removing the valve cover and examining the area the scope narrowed it down to. I have had this issue on several Ecotec engines. Had several culprits. The usual suspect is the valve lash adjuster (lifter). In my case, I have several spare ones that are known good that I can swap in its place. I assume you don't so I would swap out a couple near there with a couple from another area (preferably far away to help knowing for sure). This does involve loosening the cam caps to access, so be cautious of the timing gear. Need to make sure doesn't jump.

    Another culprit can be the roller cam follower. They can seize up with a flat spot or wear unevenly causing them to fail and rattle.

    The last one is the camshaft itself. They can wear in a way that causes a lobe to "shrink" and allow excessive play that lash adjuster cannot compensate for.

    All of the above mentioned can keep the valve from opening and or closing properly to give P0300 code.

    With cover off, turn the engine over to load each hole and compare the amount of "play" in valve train pieces on the same hole. They should feel equal. If you fin one that differs from its twin, could be what you are looking for.

    Sorry if I over simplified this. I would be happy to help further in detail if would like. Or if want to come to Vegas, happy to do it for you.

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    2.2 sat n urn ion (12-08-2017)

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    I would love to come to Vegas. I stayed at the Luxor once and had an absolute blast! I don't think the ole Saturn will make it though. But thanks for the offer.
    So, I think you've got me pegged my friend, The points you've made make it clear that I need to pull the cover off and break out my magnifying glass and one good eye. Oh, and a q-tip to boot. It sounds dead middle under the valve cover, and I'm hoping I can swap those adjusters like you said and it's real easy from there. I don't generally get this far into engines so my lingo isn't the greatest... When you say "Load each hole", you mean with oil to sort of prime the adjusters right? and when you say "differs from its twin" do you mean the other intake/ exhaust on that cylinder? I forget, these are 24 valve right? so two exhaust/ two intake per cylinder? hence the twins? meaning check the exhaust A clearance to the exhaust B clearance then intake A to intake B?
    So the breakdown on pulling the lash adjusters:
    Loosen all cam caps(including near cam gears) and the adjusters will come out? I'll check the net and book for steps... guess I didn't really need to ask here, but maybe a few key details the book doesn't say...
    I will keep all points you made in mind when I pull the cover... I hope very soon... Christmas and all, I know that valve cover gasket itself isn't free... And I'm going through rough times right now. This is my daily (and the only winter worthy vehicle) driver. So, if left to rattle for too long, I'm sure I can only cause more damage and forced to ride a motorcycle or walk 28 miles for work.
    I'm also worried that there may be an external issue that caused this one... Other than the one between the driver seat and gas peddle... So I worried that cracking this thing open will only lead me to pick lint from my pocket for Christmas.

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    By twin I mean each cylinder has 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves,2 lifter, 2 roller followers, etc. So for each instance as you rotate the engine over, they should always experience the same load at the same time. That being said, if you can move one of the followers on #2 intake for instance, and the other one seems to be firm in its place, that would make me think the loose follower has a collapsed lifter. Or maybe that roller follower has a flat spot or damage. Point is that both should have exact same load at same time. Compare the "twins" rather than the exhaust on #2 to the exhaust on #4.

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    The other question you asked was cost to repair. Well you can go all out and remove the cylinder head and take it to a local machine shop and have it refurbished for about $300. The shop will inspect all the valve train and replace parts as needed. Then need head gasket, timing sets, and water pump while you are there. Timing kits on eBay are $75. Water pump $40. Factory head gasket $45.

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    Cool, and so can I replace just one lash adjuster if that's my problem, or should I replace them all?

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    They either work or the y don't. I would replace the suspect one and no more.

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