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Thread: 2006 Chevy Malibu 2.2 ecotec

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    Array reppin581's Avatar
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    2006 Chevy Malibu 2.2 ecotec not starting

    New to this thread here, and hopefully someone can help me out big time. I recently purchased an 06 Chevy Malibu with just under 180000 miles on it. The codes that it gave me when I ran OBD II diagnostics on it were P0068 (MAP/MAF - throttle position correlation) P0420 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1) P0101 (Mass of volume air flow circuit range/performance) and P0300 (Random misfire detected). I bought it cheap hoping for a quick fix and a decent car, but it's turned into a process. Driving home it would bog and wouldn't exceed 40 mph unless heading downhill with a stiff tailwind. I pull the intake manifold and throttle body off and it was full of oil and some coolant so I figured head gasket. I then pulled the valve cover gasket off and it was a mess of sludge. Draining the coolant showed some oil in it so I figured head gasket for sure. Long story short, I removed the head and cleaned (as best I could without disassembling the valve train) the whole valve train with brakekleen and engine degreaser. I also replaced head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets and also put a new timing chain on. After putting it all back together, I put fresh plugs in and filled it with oil and a little ATF for gunk removal. IT WOULD NOT START. It would cough and sputter and run for max of 5 seconds and then die. I checked compression...cyl 1 was 120ish, cyl 2 was 98ish (kinda low?) cyl 3 was 120ish and cyl 4 was 130ish. Also did a fuel pressure check with just cycling the key and it was about 50psi. I don't know where to go from here...It's not gonna be a cheap fix after all!
    Last edited by reppin581; 03-10-2016 at 01:20 AM.

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    Array hoosierrun's Avatar
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    The head probably should have been taken in to a shop to be pressure tested (and checked for a possible coolant passageway crack). That would identify a bad valve or seat. What does a wet compression test show? If you still have low compression on one cylinder, most likely the head needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

    I know it is too late to suggest this now, but for the benefit of others, always do a complete compression check before deciding to remove the head.

    I'm also surprised to hear that your engine does not run, even with the one low cylinder (usually will run, but rough).. Are you confident that your timing marks are lined up properly and that your cam sprockets are properly seated to the cams with the bolts properly torqued? I heard of one guy who did not have his exhaust sprocket properly mated to the cam and after running for a while the sprocket slipped and ripped off the cleats from the sprocket. That ultimately led to bent valves.

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    Well here's an update after a month. I pulled the upstream 02 sensor and it fired right up. That lead me to believe the cat was plugged so I removed that and completely cleaned everything out of the cat. Ended up having to do some exhaust work on it too, because the joints were weak. Now she fires up no problem at all. this has got me down to one trouble code....P0300. This car will hit 70 no problem, no hesitation, but once it gets down to idle, it runs rough. Once it warms up, it gets rough enough to where it can stall from time to time. I got a used coil pack and through that on, didn't seem to make a difference. Fresh plugs in it, no change. Even through in a used 02 sensor for the heck of it (probably not the best choice of product) but it still has the rough idle and P0300. I hosed the whole intake from the manifold to the air box with starting fluid, but didn't see a change in the idle. Not sure where to go from there...maybe someone has a how-to on how to check the wiring for the coil pack. And I did another compression check (battery might have been weak on the first attempt) and all the cylinders put up numbers between 180psi-190psi, so thats a great sign. Any help from here on?

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    Anybody? Still stuck with this one. Just runs a P0300 and has a rough, choppy idle. Once you accelerate, it runs smoothly, then you slow down and it goes back to running like crap. Just making an expensive guess I recently replaced the ICM but that was a stupid idea. I pulled the fuel rail and it looked like cyl #4 had some corrosion around the injector seat (Idk if that's what it's called, but where the injector meets the fuel rail) so I got a used rail and injectors and tossed that in as well but it isn't making a difference. I don't know if this affects it, but the catalytic converter is gutted, and the exhaust has a leak. Maybe it's an O2 sensor? Would that cause a random misfire? As mentioned above, all cylinders have around 180-190 lbs of compression, and fuel rail reading was 53psi.

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    Do you have a spare coil pack? I known a few ecotecs that needed different coil packs.

    Reason I say coil pack is you checked injectors, you checked spark plugs, you checked compression, all thats left is the distribution?

    Ive got one lying around Im in Toronto Ontario Canada.
    Last edited by maliboo; 12-23-2016 at 03:09 AM.

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