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Thread: Ecotec into Miata

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    Ecotec into Miata

    Ok, so my brother Brett put a ecotec into his Celica he races in Lemons.. I live out west and have a 1.6 Miata, decided it was time to not be passed on the straights when we race.. Here's what we started Friday !!!

    This is the miata, with the Mazda 1.6 in it..

    2015-05-29 11.09.03.jpg

    Engine removed Friday afternoon, starting to open up the firewall, etc.. BTW: Please don't be hard on us, these are $500 cars with cages we race for fun.. We don't care about installing a radio, or what we do to our nice miata !, it's about safety 1st, then speed for 8+ hour races !!!

    Engine removed

    2015-05-29 13.16.43.jpg

    Our template Engine, L61 from a 2002 Saturn L with a Solstice Trans.

    2015-05-29 13.16.38.jpg

    We probably went in/out with the engine 20 times over the last 3 days, here's what the engine bay looks like now and the engine sitting in

    2015-05-31 14.53.16.jpg

    2015-05-30 17.18.31.jpg

    How did we make it fit.. Outside of the firewall cut, we got a oil pan off a SAAB 9-3 turbo, and it's got a deeper sump, we cut 2" out of the front and also 2" out of the cross member which we are going to reinforce..

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    Here's the oil Pan, hopefully a guy tomorrow can weld a plate in it !

    2015-05-30 15.20.20.jpg

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    Todo list for this week's kinda big

    Get Clutch Kit
    Get Solstice Trans adapter mount - 10345240
    Get Trans bushing 15287646
    Get Slave Cylinder hose - 24236218
    Get Engine Mount intake side - #4
    Get Flywheel bolts - 11570626
    Investigate Water pump deletes to send water to front of engine, and not around
    Got a Starter - off Amazon 89017756
    Test Miata Fuel pump Pressure !
    Work out Driveshaft
    Work out Exhaust
    Got Phil building a wiring harness

    Then start it !!!, seems pretty easy right !!!!

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    Oh yea, one tricky thing : the Miata has a "torque arm" that mounts to the miata trans, need to adapt that to the solstice trans to keep the driveline on the right angle

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    That is a lot of work. It's fun to watch these builds. It is difficult to tell since the best almost picture of it is obstructed by a piece of tape it looks like, but there was a revised tesnsioner design to replace the early ecotec design. Even if that is a low mileage motor, I would make sure it has the updated timing components. They issued an updated tensioner (flat head vs a very distinct nipple sticking out from the hex head) and a better flowing chain oil nozzle for both the timing and water pump/balanced shaft chains.

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    That is a lot of work. It's fun to watch these builds. It is difficult to tell since the best almost picture of it is obstructed by a piece of tape it looks like, but there was a revised tesnsioner design to replace the early ecotec design. Even if that is a low mileage motor, I would make sure it has the updated timing components. They issued an updated tensioner (flat head vs a very distinct nipple sticking out from the hex head) and a better flowing chain oil nozzle for both the timing and water pump/balanced shaft chains.
    Sparkey Quoted Post
    Yes, good feedback, this is a Saturn L engine, the goal is to get this up and running good, then look more seriously at what the right engine is, this should be about 145+ HP, I think the Miata rear end will be good til about 180HP.. I have another engine (150HP) Cavalier and a SAAB 9-3 Turbo (which threw a rod), so once the swaps all done, I will start brainstorming on what we do with the engine

    Cheers !

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    Cool build. As you are Brett's brother I know this will not be a dead end topic.
    Last edited by nogo04cav; 06-02-2015 at 12:35 PM.
    More humans=more problems
    Don't worry nothing will be done until it's too late, there is money to be made.
    Maximum profit and overpopulation will ruin all the major economies.

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    KiwiRacer (06-02-2015)

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    The Cavalier L61 should be the same as the L, maybe they used a different cam profile, but I don't think so. Now if you threw an LE5 block on that L61 head that would give you better balls w/o going turbo. But first thing's first, gettin her running.

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    What is the Water pump delete to run water to front of engine?
    Right now I am trying to modify the Cooling Water Block at back of motor to run it up, as I need the body water heater lines.

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    I think he meant thermostat housing delete, run a u-bend from the back of the water pump straight to the radiator.
    Last edited by Brett85p; 06-02-2015 at 09:18 AM.

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    Is there a kit that does that, or is it just fabbed?

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    I fabed mine but i remember seeing a billet bolt on housing on ebay or something ill try to find it
    83 chevy s10, l61 swap,colorado trans swap, full exhaust, cai, bagged and bodydropped,kyb monotube shocks, 4 wheel disc brakes, 4 link, zq8 sway bars front and rear,poly bushing through whole chassie

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