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Thread: Evilution's 2011 (Winning and Whining)

  1. Top | #13
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    Good progress man.

    How is your clearance with that sway bar next to the tie rods when jacked up? How about the distance between it and the k-member, and the distance between the endlink and the axle boot once the car is on the ground?

    Nothing is difficult; some things just take more time.
    TAKE TO EXTREMES AND DOMINATE!

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    Good progress man.

    How is your clearance with that sway bar next to the tie rods when jacked up? How about the distance between it and the k-member, and the distance between the endlink and the axle boot once the car is on the ground?
    thewizard Quoted Post
    When it's jacked up there's maybe 2.5-3" of clearance, though I'd have to actually measure to be sure. On the ground, it's a tight fit. I did gring down the front corner of each side of the bar by th endlink, as ive heard if you don't it can rub the cv boot. I also cut a little off both bolts that attach the subframe to the steering rack so they don rub the bar. The only thing I may have to address is that th endlink bolts may still be a bit long...now that's it on the ground I'll have to have someone pull the wheel to each side to make sure the Bolt ends don't hit the axle shaft. If you're interested, I can get some exact clearance measurements tomorrow.

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    I was just curious because my bar fits like piss. As you have found (MUCH) shorter endlinks are the key.

    Nothing is difficult; some things just take more time.
    TAKE TO EXTREMES AND DOMINATE!

  5. Top | #17
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    I was just curious because my bar fits like piss. As you have found (MUCH) shorter endlinks are the key.
    thewizard Quoted Post
    I think the shorter endlink spacers are what is making it possible. As of right now, when the car is on the ground, the bar is almost parallel to the control arm. There's maybe 1.5" between the bar and control arm, and I have maybe less than 1" clearance between the bar and tie rod when the wheel is turned to it's limit...I think any longer an endlink and Id have binding issues.
    It's also tight by the cv boot...had I not grinded down the bar to taper off the corners by the endlinks, I'm pretty sure it would be cutting into the boot. Darkstars has a good write up on the org, with a diagram of where to trim the sway bar and power steering bolts. It took a bit of work, and experimenting with different spacers, but I think it's well worth it. There's a noticeable difference over the stock bar.

    Not the best angle for the shot, but you get the idea, lol...the angle of the pic is misleading, the top of the endlink looks much higher than it really is...kinda hard to get a pic behind the wheel with the car on the ground.

    In other progress...
    Got some rattle can sprayed on the strut towers as a temporary fix, I'll be spraying the whole bay when I repaint the car. Don't mind the rust encrusted battery tray, that's getting ripped out next week when I move the battery.



    Got everything back together, threw on a temporary fix for an intake so I wouldn't need to put the stock box back in...next step will be the Eaton "intake" lol.


    And took a trip to the junkyard and found a trans am that wanted to donate it's EV1 injector clips.


    Got everything assembled and running, drove her to work tonight, and saw my AFRs are all over the place...I'm pretty sure it's a vacuum leak, just have to double check my work tomorrow and figure out what I forgot to reconnect...

    More to come..

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    mmmmmm.....boost
    pushrods Quoted Post
    I'll just leave this here for now...


    I'll make an actual update later today hopefully.

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  8. Top | #20
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    That looks oddly familiar.......

    L61/TVS - 3.1", LS1 tb, RD Fabs header, 63#, HPT

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    P# for that air filter please?

    Nothing is difficult; some things just take more time.
    TAKE TO EXTREMES AND DOMINATE!

  10. Top | #22
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    P# for that air filter please?
    thewizard Quoted Post
    Hmm, not sure if I have the packaging to check. It's a Spectre filter, located in the ricer aisle (as Tinkles calls it lol) at Autozone/Advanced Auto/etc...$20 I think.

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  11. Top | #23
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    Thanks. I might have to snag one for the time being.

    What's next to get your setup dialed in?

    Nothing is difficult; some things just take more time.
    TAKE TO EXTREMES AND DOMINATE!

  12. Top | #24
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    Pretty much everything is ready to go, tomorrow I need to finish up my h/e setup...basically need to mount the surge tank, connect a few lines and fill. After that it's time to turn the key and pray, lol.
    I'm hoping if the weather is decent, Ryan (Oldskool) can start tuning, which I totally leave in his hands. I'm still very much a newb at tuning. Initial goal is to just get a decent base tune, then we'll tweak it later on. If all goes well with tuning and the car is on the road, by weekend I'd like to get my gas filler relocate done, as well as mock up the mounting for my meth tank (filler will be in trunk jam), then as soon as I have free time on a weekend i'll be getting the car addicted to meth.
    Sometime this summer I also plan on upgrading the cooling system to a dual pass and new h/e, leaning towards the zzp s3 right now.

    So short answer, finish the cooling system and hopefully start the car, lol. I'm hoping I can even get it to turn over before tuning....I have a feeling 60# injectors and an ls1 tb doesn't play friendly with a stock flash, haha!

    KGM Ringleader

    '04 Cavalier coupe - LK9 swapped and supercharged - PARTING OUT!
    '04 Cavalier sedan - Daily Driver Tank
    '12 Hyundai Elantra - Wifey's Daily
    '78 Corvette - New Project - Restomod in progress!

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